Many people who were not raised in a wine drinking family decide they want to start drinking wine in their adult years, both because it adds a lovely flavor to meals and because of the health benefits. How do you get started with healthy wine drinking? First off, it would be impossible for me (or any other 3rd party) to tell you what type of wine YOU are likely to enjoy, flavor wise. We all have different taste buds! Maybe you have a sweet tooth and would love the light, White Zinfandel variety. Learn more.
Strengthen your homemade pasta dough by substituting one half cup or less of semolina flour in place of an equal amount of all-purpose flour. If using a processor to mix the dough, it will not need as much kneading as when it is mixed by hand. If the pasta becomes sticky at any point while working with the dough, dust it lightly with flour. Also, dust the equipment you are working with, such as the rolling pin or the rollers in the pasta machine, to prevent the dough from sticking. Learn more.
FROZEN NOUGAT AND CHOCOLATE DESSERT
Semifreddo al Torrone e Cioccolato
The frozen dessert that Italians make at home is usually a semifreddo, which translates literally as half-cold. It comes by its name because a semifreddo always contains some ingredient such as biscuits, candied fruits, nuts, or ricotta that does not freeze solid and hence does not require the freezing power of an ice cream machine. All it needs is an overnight stay in the freezer.
The key ingredient in this semifreddo is torrone, the hard Piedmontese nougat bar made from egg whites and almonds that in northern Italy is an inseparable part of any well-stuffed Christmas basket.
6 ounces hard Italian nougat, torrone, with almonds
6 eggs
6 tablespoons sugar
2 cups heavy whipping cream
1/2 cup bittersweet or semisweet chocolate fragmented into small pieces
1 tablespoon dark rum
A 2-quart bowl or slightly larger
A pinch of salt
1. Use a sturdy chopping knife to cut the nougat into small pieces, then grind it to a granular consistency in the food processor.
2. Separate the eggs, keeping only four of the whites.
3. Pour the yolks into a mixing bowl, adding all the sugar. Whip them until they form a foamy mass.
4. In another bowl, preferably a chilled steel one, whip the cream until it is quite stiff.
5. Add the whipped cream, the chocolate bits, the rum, and 1 1/4 cup of the ground nougat to the beaten egg yolks, mixing well to distribute all the ingredients uniformly.
6. In a clean bowl, whip the four reserved egg whites together with a pinch of salt until they form stiff peaks. Fold them gently into the egg yolk, cream, chocolate, and nougat batter.
7. Sprinkle the remaining pulverized nougat on the inside of the 2-quart bowl and over it pour the dessert's batter. Pull a sheet of plastic film tightly over the bowl and place it in the freezer. It is ready to be served the following day, but it will keep, as I have done, a full week.
8. When ready to serve, take the bowl from the freezer and remove the plastic film. Choose a plate with a lip whose inner diameter fits comfortably over the opening of the bowl. Soak a dishtowel in very hot water and wrap it around the bowl. Slide the blade of a long, thin knife inside the bowl to loosen the dessert from its sides. Set the plate upside down over the bowl, hold the bowl and plate firmly together, and give them a good shake. You will feel the dessert come away from the bowl and drop onto the serving plate.
Yield: About 8 portions
Adapted from Marcella Says...
2004
By Marcella Hazan
Harper Collins
VIN SANTO ZABAGLIONE WITH ORANGE AND GRAPEFRUIT
This surprisingly rich-tasting custard has much less fat than the classic version made with egg yolks. In another twist, we call for vin santo instead of the conventional choice, Marsala.
Active time: 20 min Start to finish: 25 min
click photo to enlarge
3 medium navel oranges
1 large pink or red grapefruit
3 tablespoons sugar
1 large egg
3 tablespoons vin santo or other sweet dessert wine
3/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
Garnish: freshly ground nutmeg
Cut peel and white pith from oranges and grapefruit with a sharp knife, then cut sections free from membranes. Drain fruit in a large sieve set over a bowl 5 minutes, reserving juice for another use. Toss fruit with 1 tablespoon sugar.
Beat egg, remaining 2 tablespoons sugar, vin santo, cream of tartar, and a pinch of salt in a double boiler or a metal bowl set over a pot of simmering water with a hand-held electric mixer at medium speed until slightly thickened and frothy, about 5 minutes (mixture will froth up and then subside a bit before thickening). Remove from heat.
Divide fruit among 4 stemmed glasses and top with zabaglione. Serve immediately.
Cooks' note:
• The eggs will not be fully cooked in this dessert, which may be of concern if there is a problem with salmonella in your area.
Each serving about 154 calories and 1 gram fat
Makes 4 servings.
Gourmet
February 2001
FROZEN ITALIAN ZABAGLIONE TART WITH MARSALA-LEMON SAUCE
Zabaglione, the Italian custard made of egg yolks, Marsala and sugar, is used as a frozen filling for a crunchy macaroon crust.
Crust
1 5.5-ounce package amaretti cookies (Italian macaroons)*
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, hot
Filling
1/2 cup dried currants
1 1/2 cups sweet Marsala
3/4 cup sugar
10 large egg yolks
2 tablespoons dark corn syrup
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1 1/3 cups chilled whipping cream
Sauce
2 cups sweet Marsala
1/2 cup sugar
2 teaspoons grated lemon peel
1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg
5 fresh strawberries, halved
*Amaretti are available at Italian markets and some supermarkets.
For crust:
Preheat oven to 350°F. Finely grind amaretti cookies in processor (makes about 1 1/2 cups crumbs). With processor running, gradually add melted butter and process until crumbs begin to stick together. Press crust mixture onto bottom and up sides of 9-inch-diameter tart pan with removable bottom. Bake crust until pale golden, about
6 minutes. Cool. Gently press up bottom of pan just to loosen crust from sides (do not remove from pan). Place crust in freezer.
For filling:
Soak currants in 1/2 cup Marsala in small bowl for 1 hour.
Whisk remaining 1 cup Marsala, sugar and yolks in large metal bowl. Set bowl over saucepan of rapidly simmering water and whisk until candy thermometer inserted into mixture registers 170°F, about
4 minutes. Remove bowl from over water. Whisk in corn syrup, vanilla and nutmeg. Refrigerate zabaglione until cool, whisking occasionally, about 20 minutes.
Beat cream in bowl to stiff peaks. Add zabaglione and beat just until smooth. Drain currants and fold into zabaglione (reserve Marsala for another use). Place in freezer until slightly stiffened but not frozen, about 1 hour.
Spoon zabaglione cream into crust, mounding in center. Freeze until almost firm, about 2 hours. Cover and freeze until firm, at least 6 hours or overnight.
For sauce:
Stir Marsala and sugar in heavy medium saucepan over medium heat until sugar dissolves. Increase heat and boil until syrup is reduced to generous 2/3 cup, about 17 minutes. Add lemon peel and nutmeg and boil 1 minute. Cool slightly. (Can be prepared 8 hours ahead. Let stand at room temperature. Rewarm over low heat before serving.)
Remove tart from pan. Transfer tart to platter. Arrange strawberries around top edge of tart. Cut into wedges. Serve, passing warm sauce separately.
Serves 8.
Bon Appétit
December 1996
ITALIAN GIANDUIA LOAF WITH CUSTARD SAUCE
Gianduia, a ground hazelnut and chocolate confection from the Piedmont, inspired this spectacular terrine.
Filling
12 ounces imported milk chocolate (such as Lindt), chopped
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter
1/3 cup light corn syrup
1/2 cup chilled whipping cream
6 tablespoons Frangelico (hazelnut liqueur)
4 large egg yolks
2 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons water
1 cup very finely chopped toasted hazelnuts (about 4 ounces)
1/2 cup sour cream
Glaze
9 ounces bittersweet (not unsweetened) or semisweet chocolate,
chopped
10 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 tablespoons light corn syrup
Sauce
2 cups half and half
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise
6 egg yolks
6 tablespoons sugar
1 cup chilled whipping cream
1/4 cup Frangelico
3 ounces imported milk chocolate (such as Lindt), finely chopped
12 husked toasted hazelnuts
For Filling:
Line 5 1/2- to 6-cup metal loaf pan with plastic wrap, overlapping sides. Melt chocolate and butter with corn syrup in heavy large saucepan over medium-low heat, stirring until smooth. Cool to lukewarm, whisking occasionally.
Whisk 1/4 cup cream, 4 tablespoons Frangelico, yolks, sugar and 2 tablespoons water in small metal bowl. Set bowl over saucepan of simmering water and whisk constantly until candy thermometer registers 160°F., about 3 minutes. Remove from over water. Add yolk mixture and remaining 2 tablespoons Frangelico to chocolate mixture in pan; whisk until smooth. Mix in nuts. Chill until cool, about 10 minutes. Using electric mixer, beat remaining 1/4 cup cream with sour cream in large bowl to stiff peaks. Add chocolate mixture and fold together. Pour filling into prepared pan; smooth top. Cover and chill overnight.
For Glaze:
Combine all ingredients in heavy medium saucepan. Stir over low heat until melted. Cool to lukewarm. Pour 1/2 cup glaze over filling in pan; shake pan gently to smooth top. Freeze until glaze sets, about 20 minutes.
Line cookie sheet with foil. Lift loaf from pan. Turn loaf out onto foil; peel off plastic. Whisk remaining glaze over low heat until just spreadable. Pour all but 1/4 cup glaze over loaf. Spread over top and sides with icing spatula, spreading glaze that runs onto foil up sides of loaf to cover completely. Chill 1 hour. (Can be prepared 2 days ahead. Cover and chill loaf and reserved 1/4 cup glaze separately.)
For Sauce:
Bring half and half to simmer in heavy medium saucepan. Scrape in seeds from vanilla bean; add bean. Whisk yolks and sugar in medium bowl to blend. Whisk in hot half and half mixture. Return mixture to saucepan and stir over medium-low heat until custard thickens and leaves path on back of spoon when finger is drawn across, about 5 minutes; do not boil. Strain into bowl. Mix in cream and Frangelico. Cover and chill until cold. (Can be prepared 2 days ahead.)
Melt milk chocolate in top of double boiler over simmering water, stirring until smooth. Spoon all but 2 tablespoons melted chocolate into parchment cone. Remove loaf from foil and transfer to platter. Pipe chocolate lines crosswise atop loaf, spacing 1/8 inch apart. Dip 1 hazelnut halfway into chocolate in pan; place atop center of loaf. Repeat with remaining nuts, spacing evenly and forming line down center. (Can be prepared 3 days ahead; refrigerate.)
Using long thin knife, cut loaf into 1/2-inch-thick slices, wiping knife clean between cuts. Place slices on plate; surround with sauce. Whisk reserved glaze over low heat until melted. Spoon into parchment cone. Pipe Zs atop sauce.
Serves 12.
Bon Appétit
MASCARPONE CHEESECAKE WITH BALSAMIC STRAWBERRIES
The almond biscotti for the easy crust are available at supermarkets, bakeries and Italian markets. The recipe is from chef Kimball Jones of Wente Vineyards Restaurant in Livermore, California.
1 1/2 cups ground crumbs from purchased almond biscotti (about 6 ounces)
6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter, melted
2 pounds cream cheese, room temperature
8 ounces mascarpone cheese*
1 3/4 cups plus 2 tablespoons sugar
2 large eggs
3 cups quartered hulled strawberries (about 1 1/2 12-ounce baskets)
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
*Italian cream cheese; sold at Italian markets and some supermarkets. If unavailable in your area, blend 8 ounces cream cheese with 1/4 cup whipping cream and 2 1/2 tablespoon sour cream.
Tightly wrap outside of 9-inch-diameter springform pan with 2 3/4-inch-high sides with 2 layers of heavy-duty foil. Mix biscotti crumbs and butter in bowl. Press mixture evenly onto bottom (not sides) of prepared pan. Chill 30 minutes.
Preheat oven to 350°F. Using electric mixer, beat cream cheese, mascarpone and 1 1/4 cups sugar in large bowl until smooth. Add eggs 1 at a time; beat just until blended. Spread cheese mixture evenly over crust in pan. Place springform pan in large roasting pan. Pour enough hot water into roasting pan to come halfway up sides of springform pan. Bake until cheesecake is golden and center of cake moves only slightly when pan is shaken, about 1 hour 10 minutes.
Transfer cake to rack; cool 1 hour. Chill overnight. (Cake can be made 2 days ahead. Cover and keep chilled. Remove from refrigerator 30 minutes before serving.)
Mix strawberries, 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar and vinegar in large bowl. Let stand at room temperature until juices form, about 30 minutes.
Cut cake into wedges. Spoon strawberries alongside and serve.
Serves 8 to 10.
Bon Appétit
September 1996
Restaurant: Wente Vineyards Restaurant; Livermore, California
STRAWBERRY SORBET WITH BALSAMIC VINEGAR AND AMARETTI COOKIES
If you're in a last-minute rush for dessert, use purchased sorbet.
2 10-ounce packages frozen strawberries in syrup, thawed
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
3 cups quartered fresh strawberries
2 teaspoons sugar
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar*
4 amaretti (Italian macaroons),* crumbled
* Balsamic vinegar and amaretti are available at specialty foods stores, Italian markets and some supermarkets.
Place first 3 ingredients in blender. Pulse until smooth, about 1 minute. Transfer to ice cream maker. Process according to manufacturer's instructions. Transfer sorbet to container and freeze. (Can be prepared 2 days ahead.)
Place fresh strawberries in medium bowl. Sprinkle with sugar and toss. Add vinegar and toss. Let stand 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Scoop sorbet into bowls. Divide strawberries over sorbet. Spoon over juices accumulated in bowl. Sprinkle cookies over strawberries and serve.
Per serving: calories, 210; fat, 1 g; sodium, 5 mg; cholesterol, 0 mg
Serves 4.
Bon Appétit
Light And Easy
ITALIAN NUT-FILLED "STICKS" (SFRATTI)
Sfratti means "sticks" in Italian, as well as "evicted," for at one time landlords were allowed to persuade unwanted and delinquent tenants to leave by force of a rod. A similar practice was employed to chase away Jews during all-too-frequent periods of expulsion. This nut-filled cookie, a popular Italian Rosh Hashannah treat, got its name from its resemblance to a stick, the Jewish sense of humor transforming an object of persecution into a sweet symbol.
Pastry:
3 cups pastry or bleached all-purpose flour, sifted
1 cup sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup unsalted butter or margarine, chilled
About 2/3 cup sweet or dry white wine
Filling:
1 cup (12 ounces) honey
2 1/2 cups (about 12 1/2 ounces) walnuts, chopped
2 teaspoons orange zest
2 teaspoons lemon zest (optional)
3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon freshly grated black pepper
Egg wash (1 large egg beaten with 1 tablespoon water)
1. To make the pastry: Combine the flour, sugar, and salt. Cut in the butter to resemble coarse crumbs. Sprinkle a little wine over a section of the flour, then mix with a fork to moisten. Push the moistened dough aside and continue adding enough wine until the dough just holds together. Divide in half. Using your fingertips, lightly press and knead into balls. Flatten into discs, wrap, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 3 days. Let stand at room temperature until malleable but not soft.
2. To make the filling: In a medium saucepan over medium heat, bring the honey to a boil and cook for 5 minutes. Be careful, it may foam up. Add the remaining filling ingredients and cook, stirring constantly, for another 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and let stand, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is cool enough to handle but not set. Pour onto a floured surface, divide into 6 equal portions, and shape the portions into 14-inch-long sticks.
3. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper or grease.
4. On a piece of waxed paper or plastic wrap or on a lightly floured surface, roll each piece of dough into a 14-by-12-inch rectangle, then cut each rectangle lengthwise into three 14-by-14-inch rectangles. Place a nut strip near a long side of each rectangle and roll up from the filling side. Cut into 2-inch sticks. Place seam side down on the prepared baking sheet, leaving 1 inch between the cookies, and brush with the egg wash.
5. Bake until golden, about 20 minutes. Transfer to a rack and let cool. Wrap in aluminum foil until ready to serve. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 weeks.
VARIATIONS
Oil Pastry: Substitute 1/3 cup vegetable oil for the butter and combine it with the wine.
Makes about forty-two 2-inch cookies.
The World of Jewish Desserts
October 2000
Gil Marks
Simon & Schuster
QUINCE IN SYRUP
(Mele Cotogne in Giulebbe)
Poached quinces in a clove-and-cinnamon-scented syrup are served at Rosh Hashanah and to break the fast at Yom Kippur. In this version, the quinces are left unpeeled for the preliminary cooking in water, and then peeled and cooked in syrup. In La cucina livornese, Pia Bedarida recommends peeling the quinces, letting them rest to take on a reddish brown color as they oxidize, and then cooking them in syrup. Other cooks peel the quinces and cook them immediately, but suggest saving the peels and seeds and cooking them along with the sliced quinces. Still another recipe uses wine instead of water.
2 pounds quinces
For the syrup:
2 cups sugar
1 cup water, or as needed
1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary
2 whole cloves
2 cinnamon sticks
In a large saucepan, combine the quinces with water to cover. Bring to a boil over high heat and cook, uncovered, until barely tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Drain the quinces and, when cool enough to handle, peel, halve, core, and cut into slices.
To make the syrup: In a saucepan large enough to accommodate the sliced quinces, combine the sugar, 1 cup water, cloves, and cinnamon sticks. Place over medium heat and bring to a simmer, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Add the quinces and additional water if needed to cover. Simmer for 5 minutes. Then, over the course of 12 hours, bring the quince slices to a boil in the syrup 3 times. boiling them for 5 minutes each time. This helps to bring up the rich red color of the fruit and allows them to absorb the syrup over time.
Transfer to a serving dish and refrigerate. Serve chilled.
Makes 6 servings.
Cucina Ebraica: Flavors of the Italian Jewish Kitchen
September 1998
Joyce Goldstein
Chronicle Books
TIRAMISU
This dessert had its heyday on American menus about 15 years ago, and it turns up a little less frequently these days. The popularity of tiramisu never wavered in Rome, however, where it continues to be served at dinner parties and restaurants.
3 large eggs, separated
3/4 cup sugar
1 (8-oz) container mascarpone cheese (1 scant cup)
1/2 cup chilled heavy cream
2 cups very strong brewed coffee or brewed espresso, cooled to room temperature
2 tablespoons sweet Marsala wine
18 savoiardi (crisp Italian ladyfingers, 6 oz)
1/4 cup fine-quality bittersweet chocolate shavings (not unsweetened; made with a vegetable peeler) or 2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder
Beat together yolks and 1/2 cup sugar in a large bowl with an electric mixer at medium speed until thick and pale, about 2 minutes. Beat in mascarpone until just combined.
Beat whites with a pinch of salt in another bowl with cleaned beaters until they just hold soft peaks. Add remaining 1/4 cup sugar a little at a time, beating, then continue to beat whites until they just hold stiff peaks. Beat cream in another bowl with cleaned beaters until it just holds soft peaks. Fold cream into mascarpone mixture gently but thoroughly, then fold in whites.
Stir together coffee and Marsala in a shallow bowl. Dip 1 ladyfinger in coffee mixture, soaking it about 4 seconds on each side, and transfer to an 8-inch glass baking dish (2-quart capacity). Repeat with 8 more ladyfingers and arrange in bottom of dish, trimming as needed to fit snugly. Spread half of mascarpone mixture evenly over ladyfingers. Make another layer in same manner with remaining ladyfingers and mascarpone mixture. Chill tiramisu, covered, at least 6 hours.
Just before serving, sprinkle with chocolate.
Cooks' notes:
• The eggs in this recipe are not cooked, which may be of concern if there is a problem with salmonella in your area.
• Tiramisu can be chilled up to 1 day.
Makes 4 to 6 generous servings.
Gourmet
FRAGOLE CON VINO
1 pint local, seasonal strawberries
3 to 4 tablespoons sugar (or more, if you want to be really Italian)
1/2 cup quality wine (red, white or sparkling)
Clean the berries. Split or slice them into a bowl. Sprinkle with sugar. Add wine, stir, and marinate for at least 10 minutes. Serve immediately. Lengthy soaking results in soggy berries.
Red, White & Greens
September 1996
by Faith Willinger
Bruce Tassone's Italian Dinner Picks
Bruce Tassone's Italian Desserts Picks